Thursday, February 10, 2011

India pt. 2 - Agra, Akbar, and Underpants

In part 1 of our series on India, we introduced you to the "wonders" of Delhi: good food, bad pollution, and a hotel room that will haunt my dreams for years to come. In this post, we'll recount our adventures on the road and our 1 night stay in Agra. As you may or may not know, Agra is home to a million and a half Indians, a couple of really cool forts, and the Taj Mahal. It was the last of these that brought us to the city.
Just after our last breakfast in Delhi (boiled eggs and dry white toast anyone?), our driver showed up (right on time) to begin our driving tour of the "Golden Triangle." His name was "Sumer," and I am sorry to report that I took only one picture of him (above). He was an excellent driver, and made us feel quite safe for most of our trip (this is no small feat when driving in India). He did, however, have one idiosyncrasy that both amused and nauseated us: he liked to use our car as a laundromat. When he first picked us up, our friend Mel very kindly offered to sit by herself in the third row seat (in the back of the car). As we began to buckle ourselves in, we heard Mel start to chuckle. I turned around to see what she was laughing about and she brought my attention to a bit of Sumer's wet laundry which he'd laid out to dry on the seat next to Mel: his underwear. Being the good sport that she is, Mel never once complained about having to share her seat with our driver's unmentionables. Instead, she found herself a piece of newspaper, rolled it up, and proceeded to move the offending garment to a more suitable spot.


This became our daily routine. Every morning for the rest of the trip, Sumer would arrive punctually at our hotels to pick us up, and every morning we would find new evidence of his cleanliness. On one particular morning, I sat in the front passenger seat, just next to Sumer. About 15 minutes into our drive, I suddenly noticed that my jeans and jacket had been soaked through with moisture. At first, I thought that I had been sweating (this was India, after all). In my confusion, I wondered aloud, "Is my seat wet?" Although I hadn't intended to direct the question to him, Sumer replied, "yes sir." "Why?" I asked. "Washing, sir," was his matter-of-fact reply. "I see," was all I could manage to say in response.
Notwithstanding the soggy undies, we found our trips through the Indian countryside to be very enjoyable. Once we got out of the city, we found ourselves driving through endless fields of yellow. Sumer had explained to us earlier that he came from a farming background. I asked him about the yellow fields and his reply was simply "Mustard."

One of our favorite things about India was the brightly colored clothing we saw everywhere.

Agra was about a 5 hour drive from Delhi, which put our arrival at about the middle of the afternoon. On our way into town, we stopped at the tomb of "Akbar" - one of the most powerful Muslim rulers of 16th Century India (bear with me on matters of history - this stuff is actually interesting to me). I was excited to see the burial place of a king that I had recently taught my AP History students about, but I was soon distracted by the wildlife that roamed the grounds (we saw parrots, chipmunks, monkeys, and even a few wild deer):
Parrots at Akbar's tomb

Indian Chipmunk

After only about a half hour at Akbar's tomb, we drove on to the destination that had really brought us to Agra: The Taj Mahal. Having seen pictures of it all my life, I had been expecting the building to be a bit anti-climactic. It wasn't.
It was spectacular.

We had arrived about an hour and a half before sunset, and the warm afternoon light gave the building a rich glow. We hired a guide (for about $4 US), who showed us around the complex. He pointed out the beautiful semi-precious inlaid stones in the building's facade and directed us to the best locations for picture taking. He even took us to the bench that Prince Charles and Princess Di had sat on to take their pictures. Here's Emily's best impression of Lady Di:

And my best attempt to look "princely":
And, of course, the photo that Emily doesn't want me to post:
Agra had been described to us beforehand as a "wretched" place, worthy of no more than a night. On this advice, we stayed only one night (in the cleanest, friendliest bed-and-breakfast of our trip). On our second morning, we visited the Agra Fort...
The apartment in which Shah Jahan (builder of the Taj Mahal) was kept prisoner in his later years.


Emily the tour guide

Inlay work - Agra Fort

...as well as Fatehpur Sikri (Akbar's capital city, abandoned shortly after his death), where we watched a brave young man jump into an algae-covered pool, only to have him hassle us for money afterwards (Rus paid him $2, which seemed to satisfy him)...

Perhaps because we followed the advice we'd been given (staying only 1 night), we left Agra feeling good about the city. The people had been very friendly, and the historical sites were unforgettable.

In our next post, we'll be writing about Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan.

If you'd like to comment (and we love to read them!), here's a few possible talking points:
1)How much money would it take you to jump into that green, slimy pool?
2)Who looks more regal in our "Royalty Picture": Emily or Brad?
3)Now that we've shared our favorite building in the whole world, what's yours?

Sunday, February 6, 2011

India pt. 1 - Delhi

It's Sunday afternoon here in Hong Kong and we've just returned from our week-long trip through Rajasthan, India. The floor of our living room is strewn with random trinkets and laundry, both of which seem to be creating a distinct "India smell" in our apartment. It's difficult to describe, although it seems to be a combination of incense, body odor, and air pollution.

This will be the first in a series of (probably) 4 posts on India. We visited 4 very different cities in our 7 days in India. Today's post will focus on our first stop: Delhi.

Delhi was our point of arrival in India: we flew in late Saturday night/early Sunday morning, and went straight to our hotel for a few hours' sleep. We had "splurged" on our accommodation in Delhi, reasoning that we would benefit from a couple nights of sound sleep. Turns out that $30 US per night, although expensive by Indian standards, doesn't go far in Delhi. Our hotel smelled constantly of burning garbage, the sheets were covered in mysterious stains, and our bathroom resembled a Guantanamo Bay interrogation cell. We were thankful that we'd brought our own sheets and towels.

Sunday morning we arranged for a whole-day taxi to take us to the sights around Delhi and (most importantly) to our cooking class. Our friends Rus and Mel came with us on this trip, and she had pre-arranged a cooking class for our first day. It was a great time.
We started off learning all about Indian spices and ingredients. We learned several "secrets" of Indian cooking. For example, did you know that Indian cooks "temper" their cooking oils by popping a few cumin or mustard seeds in the hot oil before adding further ingredients? Also, we learned the importance of fresh spices (used liberally, as you can imagine, in Indian cooking):
Our teacher in this cooking class was a lovely middle-class Indian lady who runs these classes out of her apartment as a means of supplementing her income. It was a real treat to be able to see an average middle-class Indian home on our first day.

The second secret of Indian cooking that we learned was the extensive utilization of oils and Ghee (clarified butter). Every curry we made began with about 1/4 cup of cooking oil or butter. Roughly 70% of Indians are vegetarian (mostly for religious reasons). To a westerner, this statistic sounds depressing. However, I've discovered that vegetarian cuisine can be just as rich and fattening as meat-based dishes. All you've got to do is add a couple sticks of butter to each of your recipes. You'd be surprised at the number of overweight vegetarians you see in India.

For the "frying" portion of our class, we stepped out onto the balcony:
Our cooking class concluded with an amazing meal, and at about 4pm, we finally pushed back our chairs, wiped our mouths, and headed out to explore the historic sites in the city.

We started with a trip to Humayun's tomb. This is the burial place of one of the early Mughal (Muslim) rulers of northern India. He was the great-grandfather of Shah Jahan (builder of the Taj Mahal). His tomb is referred to as the first monument in India to borrow architectural styles from the Persians (present-day Iran). Although we spent 3 years living in the Middle East, this was the first time that we had seen buildings that reminded us of Aladdin. I spent the rest of the trip trying to find myself a midriff-baring silk vest and puffy pants. No success.
At the end of the day, we worked our way back to the "India Gate" (below), an enormous arch near the city center which is dedicated to India's war dead.

After two nights and really only one day, we stuffed our things into our backpacks and set out for Agra. Overall, we found Delhi to be a bit of a shock. We had expected things to be busy, crowded, polluted, and generally chaotic... just like Cairo (we thought). What we found was a bit more extreme than we'd expected. The poverty was more grinding, the piles of garbage a little higher, and the beggars just a little more desperate than we had remembered from Egypt. It's possible that our months in affluent, organized Hong Kong have softened us, but we both agreed that Delhi was generally more extreme than Cairo. It was a fascinating city, but neither of us was in any hurry to relocate there.

In part 2 of our India series, we'll discuss the adventures of life on the road in India (including some fun stories involving our private driver: "Sumer"). We'll also discuss our experiences in Agra.

We encourage you to post your comments to let us know that people are still reading our blog (especially after that long spell of silence around Christmas time). Here are a few talking points if you'd like to comment:'
1) Who would look better in the Aladdin vest and puffy pants: Brad or Emily?
2) Do you think we were crazy to bring our own sheets and towels to India?
3) What was your most intense or memorable Third World city experience?
4) Do you enjoy Indian food as much as we do? If so, what's your favorite dish? (For Brad, it's a tie between Butter Paneer Masala and Vegetable Kofta. Emily loves kashmiri potato eggplant Curry)

Thursday, January 27, 2011

Happy Chinese New Year


Chinese New Year (the Year of the Rabbit) is just around the corner and families all around Hong Kong are preparing for the New Year. On Friday our school is going to have a Chinese New Year celebration (more pictures to follow hopefully). The city is decorated with red signs, streamers, fake cherry blossom trees and lanterns. Shops are crammed full of red envelopes from the simple to ornate (and don't forget Hello Kitty), ready to be taken home and stuffed full of money (even numbers only please) for the children and unmarried family members.
This is the year of the Rabbit. At first I thought they had their seasons mixed up as all the pictures of fuzzy cute rabbits everywhere made me think of spring time! Superstition says the year of the Rabbit is "a time to catch your breath and calm your nerves." Sounds good to me!

With this lucky time of year there is(of course) special food eaten and symbolism found in that food:
fried rice - Rice (米饭; mǐfàn) - fertility, luck, wealth, rice symbolizes a link between Heaven (Gods) and Earth (Men)

fried noodle with soy sauce & pork - Noodles (面条; miàntiáo) uncut - long life, Pork (猪肉; zhūròu) - strength, wealth, abundant blessing

red "togetherness" tray with candy/nuts - Candy and nuts are served on a round tray, the form resembling togetherness, hence the tray is called the 'Tray of Togetherness'. If items on the tray add up to the number 8, eight is a lucky number and symbolises fortune. Candy, (糖果;tángguǒ) - safety, good fortune and 'sweeten' the new year, Seeds - lotus seeds, watermelon seeds, etc. - having a large number of children 籽 [zǐ], Peanuts (花生; huāshēng) - health, long life, birth of prosperity, continuous growth, multiplication in wealth and good fortune, stability, Walnut (核桃仁; hétàorén) - happiness of the entire family, Cashew nut (腰果, yāoguǒ)- gold, money (the nut's shape symbolises the gold bar of ancient times)

mandarin oranges or other citrus - Orange (柑橘; gānjú) - wealth, good fortune, gold , Mandarin (瓯柑; ōugān) - gold, wealth, Tangerine (橘; jú) - luck, Pomelo (柚子; yòuzi) - abundance, prosperity, having children, good health, family unity, Kumquat (金橘; jīn jú) - gold, hence fortune, wealth

As I am an avid cleaner and love a chance to re-organize my home, I found some interesting trivia about cleaning house for Chinese New Year.

" It is believed the cleaning sweeps away the bad luck of the preceding year and makes their homes ready for good luck. Brooms and dust pans are put away on the first day so that the newly arrived good luck cannot be swept away. Some people give their homes, doors and window-frames a new coat of red paint. Homes are often decorated with paper cutouts of Chinese auspicious phrases and couplets. Purchasing new clothing, shoes, and receiving a hair-cut also symbolize a fresh start." (Wikipedia)

Good thing we just bought a new vacuum and Brad rid our house of the "bad luck dust bunnies". Now all I need is a new pair of shoes.....

Monday, January 24, 2011

Winter Hibernation

"Emily what has happened to your blog?"
"Why are there no new posts......"
"Where have you guys been??"

blog has not died, it was just hibernating for part of the winter (which has been cold here in HK) while we have been catching up on other things in life after Christmas break. I am a bad picture taker so while we have been very busy over the past 2 weeks since Christmas break I don't have many pictures to show for it (and I hate blog entries without pictures). Here are some high lights over the past two weeks:
  • We have been having new friends for dinner.
  • Work has been very busy for both of us recently.
  • Planning our India trip with our neighbors (we leave on Saturday for a week's adventure). Pray that no one gets sick, as most people get some sort of "Delhi Belly"
  • Trying to figure out summer plans and if I want to do the "Trans-Siberian Railroad", Brad really REALLY REALLY wants to go....I still have some reservations.....
  • Buying new plants (orchid and coffee plant)
  • Seeing Rudy and taking him to the dog park (which is highly entertaining), if only we had a video camera we would have many submissions to "America's Funniest Home Videos" (if that show is still around). Rudy's picture made it into chapel last week, so pretty much he is famous at our school!
  • Bought a vacuum, which has changed MY LIFE. It is a small vacuum so it can fit in compact storage but that sucker is powerful.
  • High tea with the ladies on my floor, very fun!
  • Catching up with emails and our blog :-)
The next blog entry will be after our India trip (or on the trip we have time to blog). Thanks for reading!

Sunday, January 2, 2011

Christmas Vacation

It has been a busy two weeks of Christmas vacation, but I finally have pictures and here are a few fun things that we have done with my family. It is really sad that we have to go back to work! Mom and dad are here until Wednesday and Julie and Tyler will be here for another week.


The "kids" on Christmas day
A great pumpkin pie
Mom and dad bought a small turkey and we figured out how to cook it in our tiny oven. We had a great Christmas dinner, we all got turkey and Ruthie got green bean casserole. Thanks Mom and Dad!
Dad and Brad enjoying some bubble tea as we waited for the bus

10,000 Buddhas (another straight up the mountain hike)
Cheung Chau Island (lots of stairs but beautiful scenery)

Dim Sum (Julie, mom and I are becoming more adept at using chopsticks)
Mom was so brave to try Chicken fingers (but she had to close her eyes for every bite).
Tyler eating Chicken "fingers" (he was upset that it kept on picking his nose for him)
Tea at the Peninsula Hotel
Dragon's back hike (we did a lot of steep hiking during this vacation, we all have legs of steel now)
Avenue of the Stars "Bruce Lee"
Who makes a better Bruce Lee statue? Brad or Tyler?


After the Nutcracker (It was an amazing ballet!)

Sai Kung Hike (it ended up being much longer than we anticipated)
Amazing pizza after a very long hike (the pizza was 2 feet in diameter)


The Peak on New Years eve (Dad was taking the picture, so he isn't in it)

New Years Eve on top of IFC Mall (amazing fireworks!!)
Sight seeing as of today: Seated Buddha (although you guys have already seen pictures of the Buddha so here is a picture of Julie and Tyler).



Friday, December 17, 2010

Christmas vacation....t-1hour


School ends in ONE HOUR and Christmas break begins! I have been listening to Christmas music all day and to be honest it has been hard to get much of anything done. Maybe I am feeling a little spent because in record time I got Christmas cards out (I needed to send them with a girl on our hall who leave for the US tomorrow).

Mom and dad get here in two days, then all the fun begins. YAY

And there were shepherds living out in the fields nearby, keeping watch over their flocks at night. 9 An angel of the Lord appeared to them, and the glory of the Lord shone around them, and they were terrified. 10 But the angel said to them, “Do not be afraid. I bring you good news that will cause great joy for all the people. 11 Today in the town of David a Savior has been born to you; he is the Messiah, the Lord. 12 This will be a sign to you: You will find a baby wrapped in cloths and lying in a manger.” Luke 2:8-12

Merry Christmas!

Monday, December 13, 2010

Christmas sneak peak


This Christmas my parents in law gave Brad and I money for Christmas. I think Brad is going to spend his money on something boring like a visa to India (we are going the end of January). But not me! There were a few things on my list so I went with Ruthie to go clothes shopping. My stylish sister helped me pick out some cute "skinny" jeans and a new top. I tried them on at home when we were on Skype with Tom and Lorna so they could see what they "bought" me. I made sure that they saw me wrap up the present again and put it under the tree. I think I have shown great restraint this year, as I know what all my gifts are and I have kept them under the tree. :-) Kalina requested a picture so here it is. Sorry for the squinty eyes, I can't help it with my Condie eyes and I can't unwrap the present again to take another picture. Merry Christmas!